Little scrubber…Trilogy & Liz Earle facial exfoliants

March is still detox month (that three-day detox I’ve been trying to schedule in starts at the end of this week). But while I’ll be focusing quite a lot on what you can do to clean up your insides, that’s not to say you can’t work to perk up your outsides too.

 

Swapping processed sugars for fresh fruit and veg will help to promote luminous skin, but if you’re not regularly removing the layer of dead skin cells on the surface, it’ll struggle to show through.

 

Thanks to a combination of cold weather, dehydration and less frequent exercise, our skin renewal process slows down in the winter months. So I’ve been a bit of a scrubber recently…

 

Today, the focus is on the face. Facial exfoliation is important but it’s vital that you remember three key words. Always be gentle. Some skin types need less frequent exfoliation (like sensitive or dry skins); some can get away with 2-3 times a week (like oily skins). But there isn’t a skin type out there that will be happy about over-enthusiastic scrubbing.

 

My favourite types of exfoliators are those that use small particles to slough off dead skin cells, but you could use AHAs (alpha-hydroxy-acids) to dissolve the cells instead. My ‘particle’ of choice is the gentler, rounded jojoba bead – no sharp edges or corners to cause any unnecessary damage to the skin.

 

And my favourite facial scrubs at the moment come from two of my favourite brands: Liz Earle and Trilogy. Both use jojoba beads for their exfoliating action. Liz Earle ramps up the goodness with eucalyptus to help purify the skin, richly moisturising cocoa butter and skin conditioning sweet almond oil. Trilogy uses active honey enzymes and camellia oil to help loosen dead skin cells, along with sweet almond, this month’s oil of choice rosehip and evening primrose oils to hydrate and nourish.

 

Both smell lovely. Both are creamy and gentle. Both give a nice peachy glow without excessive redness.

 

Trilogy’s Gentle Facial Exfoliant: £21.50, but currently available Naturisimo at £18.30 delivered.
Ingredients: Aqua (Purified Spring Water), Kaolin Clay, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Glycerol Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Zinc Oxide, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Liz Earle Gentle Face Exfoliator: from £5.25, available from the Liz Earle website and john Lewis stores nationwide.
Ingredients: Aqua (water), Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, Jojoba esters, Cetyl esters, Glycerin, Cera alba (beeswax), Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan stearate, Eucalyptus globulus (eucalyptus) oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil, Panthenol, Cetearyl alcohol, Sodium hydroxide, Limonene, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic acid, Dehydroacetic acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyaminopropyl biguanide

Oil of the month: Rosehip

Oil of the month for March is Rosehip and if you’ve been paying any attention to developments in natural skincare, you’ll not have missed the fact that rosehip is everybody’s new oil darling.

It’s a powerhouse for facial skincare because it helps to promote skin repair, which has positive implications for anti-ageing. Rich in phytonutrients, essential fatty acids and vitamins such as trans-retinoic acid (or Vitamin A), it helps to reduce the appearance of scars, stretchmarks and fine lines. It can also act as a complexion booster, helping to brighten dry, dull or dehydrated skin.

If you look closely, you’ll spot rosehip on the ingredients lists of many skincare products. It’s pressed from the seeds of the rosehip bush and there’s more than one variety out there – Rosa moschata, Rosa rubiginosa and the wild variety ‘Dog rose’ or Rosa canina. Both Trilogy and Pai have built their product range around this core ingredient.

The easiest way to benefit though is to use the pure, organic oil as an intensive facial treatment. If you’ve got oily or normal skin, that may be all you need as a moisturiser; if you’ve got dry or dehydrated skin (like mine), you’ll probably want to layer a complementary moisturiser over the top. Just rub a few drops between your palms and press gently into your face and neck.

To really enhance the effects, work it in with some gentle facial massage – one of the most effective ways to improve your complexion and increase the luminosity of the skin. It brings blood to the surface, which carries with it a nice hit of oxygen and nutrients to feed your face!

Start with some upward sweeping movements on your cheeks. Then hook your fingers under the zygomatic bone (posh word for cheek bone – I’m practising my anatomy terminology, sorry!) and gently sweep your fingertips outwards, from your nose to your temples. You can also work your jawline by stroking your fingers from your chin upwards and outwards to the top of your jaw bone (can’t remember the name for that one…!) and your forehead by pulling your fingers outwards in alternate strokes from your eyebrows up to your hairline. Disperse the fluids that lead to puffiness around the eyes by making gentle circles with your ring finger around the eye socket. Then finish by lighting tapping your fingertips all over your face to help bring blood to the surface.

The following brands offer rosehip oil, although it’s clear from a bit of online research that Pai is setting the gold standard for many people:

  • Pai Rosehip Bioregenerate Blend (currently £20 delivered on Naturisimo)
  • A’Kin Pure Radiance Rosehip Oil (currently £11 delivered on Naturisimo)
  • Trilogy Organic Rosehip Oil (currently from £14.50 delivered on Naturisimo)
  • Balm Balm Rosehip Serum (currently £13.25 delivered on Naturisimo)
  • Melvita Rosehip Oil (currently £16.20 delivered on Naturisimo)

You can also get cold-pressed rosehip oil from aromatherapy stockists:

I use it as an enricher when doing facial massage by adding a few drops to a good facial base oil such as apricot or peach kernel. If you wanted to make a more sophisticated blend using rosehip oil, you could try one of these:

  • For anti-ageing: 25ml of apricot or peach kernel oil, 5ml rosehip oil, 5 ml evening primrose oil, 4 drops frankincense, 4 drops petitgrain, 3 drops rose
  • For dry or dehydrated skin: 25ml of apricot or peach kernel oil, 5 ml rosehip oil, 5ml wheatgerm oil, 4 drops Roman chamomile, 3 drops rose, 3 drops sandalwood

One final note. Remember that no ingredient – natural or otherwise – is a miracle worker. A lot of skincare advertising bangs on at length about ‘instant’ results and ‘transformations’. Rosehip is a powerful oil, but you’ll need time to see true results. Most people would need to use the oil for at least 6-8 weeks to see a noticeable difference in the tone or texture of their skin.

Rosehips (Image courtesy of Pai Skincare - one of the natural brands making best use of this skincare powerhouse)

Feeling a bit sensitive? Trilogy’s Sensitive Skin range

I’ve written about Trilogy before (see here) since being properly introduced to them at a press event back in July. In the few weeks since the wedding (apart from constantly pinching myself in disbelief about how it’s now well over a month ago) I’ve been using two products from the Sensitive Skin range every night as part of my evening routine. [For info, I'm using Trilogy's Vital Moisturising Cream SPF15 in the morning, which you can read about here.]

In that time, I’ve learned two things.

Thing one – I need to stop with the beauty routine ADHD. The momentum generated by starting up the blog coupled with my existing unrestrained enthusiasm for trying new products has been a little out of control recently. I know full well that my skin doesn’t react well to chopping and changing but it’s just so addictive! It’s a delicate balance because I’m often testing out samples and simply don’t have the finances to stock up with a 4-6 week supply of every new product I try. But it’s clear that my skin is just much happier when I try to limit the testing.

So I’m going to be a bit more restrained in future. Some things like body washes, cleansers, toners and treatments like masks and scrubs can be mixed up with little problem. Other things, like facial and body moisturisers, can’t be. So I’m going to learn my lesson and try to give my skin more time to rebalance itself between trials.

Thing two – (and part of the reason why I’ve been reminded of thing one) The Sensitive Skin range at Trilogy is seriously impressive. For the last 4 and a bit weeks, my evening routine has involved using the Very Gentle Calming Fluid as a serum replacement for an extra hit of moisture, followed by a layer of the Very Gentle Moisturising Cream.

Targeted at ‘fragile, intolerant and sensitive complexions’, the products are very moisturising without being at all heavy, extremely soothing and fragrance free.

Both products contain extracts of chamomile, calendula and evening primrose, renowned for their soothing and skin-restoring properties. The cream also contains the antioxidant green tea, and plant-derived hyaluronic acid, a substance which is found naturally in the body and helps to soften the skin and protect it from some of the effects of ageing. Most importantly of all, they are both formulated to be extremely gentle on sensitive complexions.

My skin isn’t flawless but it’s been much calmer recently and I’ve noticed it’s been significantly less prone to redness and irritation. On the rare (and probably hormonally-influenced) occasions when it’s flared up, it seems to settle itself much more quickly and I’ve noticed that I haven’t suffered with the dry, flaky patches that usually occur in the ‘healing’ period after it’s been properly inflamed.

I really rate this range because it does exactly what it promises to do, particularly if you give it a decent amount of time to take effect. Hand on heart, I miss having a fragrance to indulge in but this range is now a must-have for those periods when I’ll inevitably need to allow my skin time to rebalance, whether it’s been upset by internal triggers, environmental factors or my own tendency to subject it to regular experimentation.

Trilogy isn’t a budget brand, but it’s available on Naturisimo with free UK delivery and if you act fast you can get 10% off. If you’re a Boots card-holder, you can also buy it through Boots online (and selected Boots stores) to benefit from the points.

Very Gentle Calming Fluid – RRP £28 for 30ml

Ingredients: Aqua (Purified Spring Water), Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Ormenis Multicaulis (Chamomile Flower) Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract (and) Gl, Camilla Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Xanthan Gum, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extrac, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Very Gentle Moisturising Cream – RRP £24 for 50ml

Ingredients: Aqua (Purified Spring Water), Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Althea Officinalis (Marshmallow) Extract, Ormenis Multicaulis (Chamomile Flower) Oil, Hyaluronic Acid (Sodium Hyaluronate), Camilla Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract (and) Gl, Xanthan Gum, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extrac, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

My wedding and mini-moon kit

And so I’m back….

I’m married. I’m about as relaxed as can be (despite the unpacking and endless loads in the washing machine – seriously, if it’s all about the ONE dress, how can there BE so much washing) and I’m sat at my new ‘desk’. My blog (and soon to be Aromatherapy Course) now have a new workstation courtesy of The Man With The Camera. More on both anon, as well as a sneak peek of my wedding and mini-moon venues under the Inspirational Green banner, and the competition winner.

But first, in the name of natural beauty, a run-down of my wedding and mini-moon kit. I now test a lot of things for the blog but with sensitive skin, I need to be careful that I don’t overdo things. When the pressure’s on (approximately 2000 close-ups anyone?), I was interested to see what I would revert to. It’s an interesting mix of new and old. Some core favourites that I’ve relied on for years and trust as I do my gynaecologist (if I had one). Other relative newbies who’ve come along and impressed me recently. Some I’ve written about already (links where they apply). Some I’m definitely going to be writing about soon.

Happy Bank Holiday Monday to you all. [Apologies for all the long links - WordPress won't let me embed them at the moment. Anyone with any ideas as to why that might be, do please get in touch!]

Face – cleansers: Liz Earle Cleanse and Polish Hot Cloth Cleanser (read more here: http://naturalbeautycabinet.com/2011/04/15/fresh-faced-liz-earles-cleanse-and-polish-hot-cloth-cleanser/); Evolve Gentle Cleansing Melt (read more here: http://naturalbeautycabinet.com/2011/08/09/evolve-gentle-cleansing-melt/); Caudalie Cleansing Water (more on this soon); The Body Shop Camomile eye make-up remover

Face – moisturisers: A’Kin Rosehip Oil (rosehip oil will definitely feature soon); Trilogy Sensitive Skin Very Gentle Calming Fluid and Moisturising Cream (a dedicated range from Trilogy that will feature soon); Liz Earle Skin Repair Moisturiser (Dry/Sensitive); Trilogy Vital Moisturising Cream SPF15 (read more here: http://naturalbeautycabinet.com/2011/07/31/sunscreen-my-guide-and-recommendations/)

Face – treatments, toners and balms: Figs & Rouge Balm Lip Repair (Peppermint and Tea Tree) (more later); Liz Earle Intensive Nourishing Treatment Mask (more later); Liz Earle Gentle Face Exfoliator;  Raw Gaia Chamomile Floral Water (read more here: http://naturalbeautycabinet.com/2011/06/28/spray-solutions-for-another-scorcher/); Avene Thermal Water; Trilogy Age Proof CoQ10 Eye Recovery Concentrate (read more here: http://naturalbeautycabinet.com/2011/07/21/trilogy-age-proof-coq10-eye-recovery-concentrate/)

Body: Pit Rok Natural Spray Deodorant, Lavender Bath and Body Oil (read more here: http://naturalbeautycabinet.com/2011/06/18/introducing-the-lavender-lady/); Wonder Oil (read more here: http://naturalbeautycabinet.com/2011/05/26/wonder-oil-whats-in-a-name/); The Body Shop Shea Body Scrub (read more here: http://naturalbeautycabinet.com/2011/07/17/skin-prep-for-summer-part-2-body-scrubs/); Balance Me Hand and Body Wash with Petitgrain and Green Myrtle (my favourite smell ever)

Hair: Philip Kingsley Shampoo for flaky/itchy scalps; MOP Mixed Greens Moisture Conditioner; Many other probably less-than-natural shine and hold sprays as used by my hairdresser (who thought a relaxed, mostly down do could require so much product?!)

Fragrance: Darphin Lys D’Eau Cologne; Kiehl’s Forest Rain EDT (it smells like wet green and is the most perfect androgynous, outdoorsy smell)

Make-up (not pictured): Stila Illuminating Tinted Moisturiser; Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturiser SPF20; Max Factor Masterpiece Waterproof Mascara (not desperately natural but it didn’t budge and I knew I’d need it!); UNE lip gloss (more later)

SUNSCREEN: my guide and recommendations

Apologies for the sheer length of this post. If you’re still reading at the end, give yourself a massive pat on the back.

I’ve been meaning to talk about sunscreen for quite some time. My initial plan had me posting this back in May sometime. The truth is that when I started investigating sun protection in skincare ages ago, I felt like I’d opened some hideous Pandora’s box of horrors and have spent the last few weeks trying to shove it all back in. There is SO much information (and often conflicting or impenetrable information) out there, that I found it really hard to get at the important stuff and make up my mind. I think I’ve done so. Made up my mind, that is. Hopefully what follows will help to simplify and/or clarify some of the suncare struggles you might also have been experiencing.

I should mention here that the EWG (Environmental Working Group) was invaluable to my research. They’ve got heaps of information on their website and really helped to demystify things for me. Well worth a look if you want to read up in more detail. All of my recommendations are backed up by their extensive research.

To begin at the beginning, there are two different types of sunscreen: those that use chemicals for UV protection and those that use minerals to create a physical barrier that blocks the UV light. Chemical or mineral – choice number 1.

Chemical sunscreens:

With my natural leanings, chemical sunscreens sound less appealing straight away. But I went away to better understand what they are and how they work. To kick things off, the following is a list of the ingredients you might find in a chemical sunscreen: Benzophenones (dixoybenzone, oxybenzone), PABA and PABA esters (ethyl dihydroxy propyl PAB,  glyceryl PABA, p-aminobenzoic acid, padimate-O or octyl dimethyl PABA), Cinnamates (cinoxate, ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate), Salicylates (ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, octyl salicylate), Digalloyl trioleate, Menthyl anthranilate, or Avobenzone. These substances will be absorbed into your skin, where they will, in turn, absorb harmful UVB and UVA rays.

The most frequently-used ingredients are oxybenzone, octisalate, octinoxate and avobenzone. Of these, oxybenzone, the most common, is also the most controversial. Studies have shown it can trigger allergic reactions and even act as a hormone disruptor. According to Wikipedia, ‘hormone disruptors are chemicals that interfere with endocrine (or hormone) systems…[and]…can cause cancerous tumours, birth defects and other developmental disorders. Here are some less-than-appealing figures from the EWG: studies by Calafat (2008) and Wolff (2009) detected oxybenzone in 96% of the US population, while a recent study in Europe found four common sunscreen chemicals in breast milk. Remember that link to developmental disorders?? So far, so not very reassuring.

Mineral (Physical) sunscreens

As mentioned, these sunscreens use minerals to form a protective barrier on the surface of the skin, which then reflects UVA and UVB rays. Mineral formulations will contain tiny particles of either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. The EWG notes that although most studies demonstrate that these particles do not penetrate the skin (where they could enter the bloodstream), this research is continuing particularly in relation to smaller ‘nano’ particles. However, on balance, they regard mineral sunscreens as the better choice because they are not so readily absorbed into the skin and offer much better UVA protection.

There is, however, one important consideration when choosing a mineral sunscreen: the type of product you’re buying. The studies that indicate the active ingredients are not penetrating the skin in cream formulations, also show that they can enter the body if inhaled. For this reason, the lower toxicity rating given by the EWG only applies to mineral sun lotions and creams. It doesn’t recommend using mineral sunscreens sold as sprays or in loose powder formulations, which also has implications for mineral make-up. For more interesting advice on this see here and here.  

Combined products

A quick note about combined products; i.e. formulations that use both chemical and mineral UV filters. Studies indicate that uncoated titanium dioxide and zinc oxide can break down avobenzone. This has two implications: firstly, avoid products that contains both of these ingredients (these formulations are actually banned in some countries); secondly, be careful how you layer your products. If your sunscreen contains avobenzone, don’t apply make-up containing a mineral filter over the top. You could make your sunscreen ineffective or even more harmful.

SPF, UVA and UVB

Lots has been written about SPF and most people are familiar with the idea that it’s a measurement of how long you could (not should) stay in the sun after applying. However, I learned some quite interesting and shocking things during the course of my research. For instance, did you know that many of the ingredients in chemical sunscreens only work against UVB rays and therefore some chemical sunscreens provide negligible protection against UVA? Most of us apply sunscreen for two key reasons: to avoid burning when exposed to the sun in the short term, and to try and dminish the ageing effects of UVA damage on the skin in the longer term. This means that some sun products are really failing us but we won’t necessarily notice for a good long while.

The SPF rating on a sunscreen relates to its ability to protect against UVB radiation, which burns the skin. There is no formal classification for UVA protection (UVA rays accelerate ageing and can also cause damage in the dermis which could lead to skin cancer). Some products use the star rating system for UVA protection but I think the system is still really unclear. In short, don’t assume your product contains UVA protection unless it’s explicitly stated on the packaging. It’s worth knowing that Boots don’t stock products that don’t have UVA protection as stipulated by European standards.

If you focus only on SPF, you could end up doing more damage to your skin that if you’d used no protection at all. Here’s how: say you’re wearing a sunscreen with an SPF50 so you end up staying out in the sun for 4 or 5 times as long as you would have done were you wearing no sunscreen at all. If that same ‘high protection’ has low UVA protection, you’ve spent a considerable amount of time exposing yourself to damaging UVA radiation. You didn’t burn, but plenty of damage has been done. The EWG analysis suggests that people using chemical sunscreens are exposed to approximately 20% more UVA radiation than those using mineral protection. Ouch.

Mineral ingredients provide UVB and UVA protection. Titanium dioxide protects you against UVB and short wave UVA radiation (but not long wave UVA which can still cause damage). Zinc oxide is even better, protecting you from UVB and most UVA rays , plus it’s known for its antimicrobial and healing properties.

The best thing you can really do for your skin is get enough sunshine but not too much more. The recommendation is 10-15mins of gentle exposure per day, on any unprotected skin. But you should limit your exposure to strong sunlight at peak times (11am-3pm) even if you’re wearing sunscreen, by retreating to the shade or wearing a big old hat.

Summary of pros and cons

Chemical sunscreens – PROS Mineral sunscreens – PROS
  • More pleasant formulations to use (lighter, etc)
  • No ‘white mask’ or ashy effect on the skin
  • No problems with combining products (i.e. mineral sunscreen AND make-up is ok)
  • Zinc oxide provides very good UVB AND UVA protection
  • Chemicals are not absorbed into the skin but form a protective barrier (less risk of allergic response or irritation
  • Cooler on the skin – UV rays are reflected, not absorbed into the skin
  • Do not break down in sunlight offering more sustained protection
Chemical sunscreens – CONS Mineral sunscreens – CONS
  • Contains chemicals that do penetrate the skin and can get into the bloodstream
  • Some of these chemicals have been shown to be hormone disruptors or to trigger allergic reactions
  • Many chemical ingredients provide inadequate UVA protection
  • Break down in sunlight so more regular application is required
  •  Formulations can be heavier or greasier
  • Some formulations may leave an ashy white tint on the skin
  • Still some debate about whether the smaller ‘nano’ particles can be absorbed into the skin
  • Powder or spray formulations may be toxic if inhaled

Conclusion

So after ALL that (I’m exhausted…how are you guys doing?), I’ve reached my conclusion and recommendations. Based on the research, I’m going to try and choose liquid-based mineral formulations for my sun protection. Where possible, I’m also going to try and choose products that use zinc oxide as the main active ingredient because of it’s added benefits and extra UVA protection. I don’t expect everyone to necessarily make the same choice as me. Studies are, after all, not gospel and may in time be disproved or invalidated by other later studies. I just think it’s important with sunscreen to make an informed choice, whatever conclusions you reach.

Products

And here’s where it gets tricky. Because I now know ALL of the above, have decided to use mineral sunscreens and yet it’s hard to deny that a lot of mineral formulations just don’t feel as nice as chemical ones. It’s getting better though. Modern techniques allow for a much smaller particle size and mineral formulas are getting lighter, clearer and less like toothpaste! I’ve been experimenting with a few products recently, the results of which are below:

Trilogy Vital Moisturising Cream SPF15 (Active ingredient: titanium dioxide)

This is quite a rich formulation and acts as a stand-alone moisturiser if you’ve got dry skin, saving you the time to layer on more products. It leaves a noticeable sheen on the skin after use but this wasn’t whitening. In fact, the first time I used it a friend commented that I looked ‘glowy’ and I’m 99.9% sure that was a compliment (because she’s a friend and a very lovely person)! A nice base for powder-based make-up because of its more tactile feel on the skin. Bit more expensive, but the cream has benefits beyond sun protection boasting evening primrose, marula and organic rosehip oil to soothe and enrich the skin. I really liked this for light protection.

Ingredients: Aqua (Purified Spring Water), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil, Zinc Oxide, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides & Cetearyl Al, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea (Marula Seed) Oil, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Tricontanyl PVP, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Oil, Ormenis Multicaulis (Chamomile Flower) Oil, citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange) flower, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extrac, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Isostearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Salicylic Acid, Parfum, Citral, Geraniol, Citronellol, Limonene, Linalool, *Components of Natural Essential Oils

Available on the Trilogy website (Trilogy – WHY do you not show prices clearly??) for, I think, £27.50 but you can find it cheaper if you shop around. It’s currently on Amazon for £24.

Green People Day Solution SPF15 (Active ingredient: Titanium dioxide)

I found this very light and easy to apply. No whiteness or greasiness – it gives an almost powdery finish. This was too light for my dry skin as a stand-alone moisturiser and SPF but it layered really well over my usual day cream. It would be excellent if you had oily or normal skin, I think. It’s also a good value option at about £14.95. Apparently it’s scented with rose geranium oil but I must admit I didn’t pick this up and would have said it was fragrance free. You can currently get 10% off the retail price on Essentials London.

Ingredients: Aloe barbadensis (aloe vera), *Elaeis guineensis (palm oil), *Helianthus annuus (sunflower oil), Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate (cinnamon-derived UV-filter), Cetearyl glucoside (emulsifying plant wax), Titanium dioxide (mineral UV-filter), *Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba oil), *Cannabis sativa (hemp oil), Cetearyl alcohol (emulsifying plant wax), Glyceryl stearate (plant-derived moisturiser), *Olea europaea (olive oil), *Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary extract), *Thea sinensis (green tea extract), *Chamomilla recutita (chamomile extract), *Pelargonium graveolens (rose geranium oil), Rosmarinus officinalis & Thymus vulgaris & Salvia officinalis, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic acid and Dehydroacetic acid (preservative system), *Geraniol, *Citronellol, *Linalool, *Citral, *d-Limonene (from essential oils). *87.3% certified organic ingredients

Lavera Sun Sensitive Organic Neutral Sun Milk SPF20 (Active ingredient: Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide)

This is a very thick cream and I found it quite hard to apply on my face without dragging. It also left the most noticeable white tint of all the products I tried, although this wasn’t as visible a few minutes after application. It’s not my choice for everyday application but I think it would be if I was on holiday or at the beach and exposed to more sun or dry air. If you’re less bothered by how you look, it feels very protecting and as if it will be much more resistant to sweat and sand. It also contains ingredients designed to calm skin that is being exposed to more irritants (sun, salt, heat, wind) – licorice extract (which studies indicate is a good ingredient for soothing rosacea), sea buckthorn oil and vitamin E. It’s also free from flower extracts, herbal extracts and essential oils so an excellent choice for those with really sensitive and easily irritated skin. I like Lavera’s focus on sensitive skin and their commitment to use zinc oxide so I’m inclined to explore more of their sun products in search of a slightly lighter formula.

It retails at £10.50 but if you purchase now on the Lavera UK site, pravera, you will get a free sun protection lip balm worth £5.50. 

Ingredients: Aqua, Glycine Soja Oil*, Zinc Oxide, Polyclyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Titanium Dioxide, Glycerin Alcohol, Tricaprylin, Canola Oil, Glyceryl Oleate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil*,Simmondsia Chinensis Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glucose Glutamate, Oenothera Biennis Oil*, Dipotasssium Glycyrrhizate, Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract*, Tocopherol, Stearic Acid, Alumina, Betaglucan, Aloe Barbadensis Gel* Ascorbyl Palmitate

Neal’s Yard Wild Rose Daily Moisture SPF30 (Active ingredient: Zinc Oxide)

This is my current pick of the bunch and based on having to preorder in store and it being almost constantly sold out on the Neal’s Yard website, I’m not the only fan. This is a 100% mineral sunscreen with added antioxidant-rich rosehip oil and milk thistle to help counter the effects of the sun while protecting you from it. Crucially, it’s also the lightest product to apply and has no whitening effect whatsoever. The formula isn’t even white when it comes out of the tube; it’s a creamy beige-yellow. It smells quite strongly of rose so if that’s not your bag, it could be a problem, but it has a matt finish and is very easy to apply. I haven’t actually tried it without another moisturiser underneath, which I must do. I did notice that when you apply it over another product it feels slightly grainy. Not sure what that is but it’s not a huge problem and didn’t bother me too much, given all the other advantages. It is more expensive but I’m inclined to believe it’s worth that extra money.

Available from Neal’s Yard website (sometimes!) and in stores, retailing at £23.50.

Frankincense Firming Mask pictured to demonstrate packaging

Ingredients: Tapioca starch*, Zinc oxide, Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) seed oil*, Caprylic/Capric triglyceride, Glyceryl laurate, Glyceryl isostearate, Dextrin palmitate, Rosa canina (Rosehip) fruit oil*, Borago officinalis (Borage) seed oil*, Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil*, Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) leaf oil*, Cymbopogon martinii (Palmarosa) herb oil*, Pogostemon cablin (Patchouli) leaf oil*, Boswellia carterii (Frankincense) oil, Pelargonium graveolens (Geranium) flower oil*, Polyhydroxystearic acid, Silybum marianum (Milk thistle) extract, Tocopherol, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool * Organically produced ingredient Natural constituent of essential oils listed

Also on my to try list are products by Korres, Badger and L’Occitane’s Angelica range. I’ve read good things about them and will report back on further investigations into sunscreen when my budget allows!

I’d love to get feedback on the above. It’s been a bit of a slog putting things together and it would be great to find out if it’s helped anyone. Plus I’m always on the lookout for tips, so if you’ve got a mineral sunscreen you can’t do without, do let me know.

Happy suntime!

Trilogy Age Proof CoQ10 Eye Recovery Concentrate

Just over a week ago, I attended an event at Bill’s Café in Covent Garden, featuring New Zealand brand Trilogy, which you can read about here.

Trilogy was founded in 2002 and the name comes from its philosophy: the ‘trilogy’ of simplicity, purity and vitality. Founders (and sisters) Sarah Gibbs and Catherine de Groot shaped their business around their wonder ingredient rosehip oil, which I will write about in a future post. Now their product range includes a skincare line, body care, hair care, a men’s range and, more recently, a selection of skincare products aimed at sensitive skin and one designed for maturing skin – the Age Proof collection, of which more below.

I was given a couple of products to try out after the event and started with the Age Proof CoQ10 Eye Recovery Concentrate. The blurb I was given at the event makes the following claims: “Packed with a powerful cocktail of antioxidant-rich botanical extracts to instantly refresh and lift the delicate skin around the eye contour area…The result…eyes that look and feel younger, brighter and refreshed.” Those key botanical ingredients mentioned are Co-enzyme Q10, a powerful antioxidant that boosts collagen and elastin production to protect against photoageing, as well as green coffee seed and horse chesnut. The latter ingredients contain caffeine and flavonoids, respectively, which help to stimulate circulation, toning the skin and helping to diminish dark circles and puffiness.

Now I am undisciplined when it comes to eye products. I know I should use them. I see the fine lines and I read the sage advice about how the skin around the eyes is particularly delicate and needs specialist products. Then I frequently just don’t bother. Oils, serums, moisturisers. A lot of slathering already goes on and sometimes eye cream just feels like a faff too far.

All of this means that I’m very strict about my eye products. They must be easy to apply. They must sink in quickly. They musn’t be too greasy or heavy. They really musn’t flake off or cause creasing when I apply concealer over the top. Most of all, they should be pleasurable to use. I’ve learned that I need to want to apply them, or it just won’t happen.

Trilogy’s Eye Recovery Concentrate gets lots of ticks in lots of boxes. Its rollerball applicator makes it an absolute breeze to put on. I thought that I might not be able to control it as well as I could my own finger and that it might drag the skin. However, the product dispenses easily – as long as you give it a good shake first - and the ball feels really cold and refreshing on the skin. The cream (more of a serum really) is light, easily absorbed and feels like it has a smoothing, revitalising effect on the under-eye area.

Chloe, the friendly and informative Trilogy ambassador at last week’s launch, said that it could even be applied over make-up, which I was initially a bit sceptical about. But she’s right. I’ve tried it and it didn’t rub, streak or unduly disturb my concealer. I don’t think I’d go mad with it, believing – as I do – that one of the best things you can do to limit the formation of lines around the eyes is resist the urge to poke at them all the time. But for a quick hit of moisture before going from work to pub, I reckon this would be a winner.

All in all, I’m impressed with my first foray into Trilogy. Impressed enough to want to try more. And I’d definitely repurchase the Eye Concentrate. This might just be one eye cream that doesn’t end up an expensive mistake discarded by the wayside on the path of good intentions.

RRP £25.50, available from trilogyproducts.co.uk, and selected House of Fraser, Boots and John Lewis stores nationwide.

Ingredients: Aqua (Purified Spring Water), Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Jojoba Esters, Ubiquinone (Co-enzyme Q10), Hyaluronic Acid (Sodium Hyaluronate), Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Horse Chestnut Extract, Coffee Seed Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Extract, Ormenis Multicaulis (Chamomile Flower) Oil, Camilla Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract (and) Gl, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extrac, Glycerin, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Disclosure: I was given a free sample of the Trilogy Eye Recovery Concentrate to test but, as per usual, it’s only featured on the blog because I’ve tried it myself, I liked it and I’d happily recommend it.

Keromask/Trilogy online media event at Bill’s Cafe, London

A very quick update today. I was fortunate enough this morning to attend a combined online media event featuring the lovely (and impeccably green) Trilogy and the launch of Keromask make-up.

I have some interesting new products and ranges to investigate – was particularly taken with the new line from Trilogy aimed specifically at sensitive skin – and will be writing up my favourites in the coming weeks when I’ve had a chance to try them out properly. Apologies for the lack of pictures – I need to write a note on my arm reminding me to take more. It’s very difficult to remember to keep snapping when there’s so much to look at and people to talk to.

It was nice to discover that the beauty and health blogging community is just as friendly in real life as it is online. Particular thanks to the girls from Mybutterfly63 and Peoniesandlilies, to whom I chatted briefly – it was very nice to meet you both! Thanks also to the organisers for a relaxed and cheerful event and also to Bill’s Cafe for a very moreish (and quite sinful) breakfast spread. I wish I had pictures of that. I might have had other things on my mind at that point…

I’ve written before about how nice it is to speak directly to the brand ambassadors so you can ask your questions and pick their brains. There’s really no substitute. And you often encounter real passion and personality, such as the engaging Eryca Freemantle from Keromask who talked us through a makeover using the products. I’ll leave you today with her words of advice about applying make-up because they made me laugh and I feel there’s a nugget of something bigger in there too!

“Blend, blend, blend ladies…..there’s always another train.”

Trilogy products

06-12th June – Aromatherapy Awareness Week

This week is Aromatherapy Awareness Week (AAW). I discovered this after some focused online searching because I knew it was coming up at roughly this time. It’s interesting that there isn’t really any actual information out there about it, though. Not even the IFA (International Federation of Aromatherapists) has published any details of what it might be for or how people can get involved. No sign of any special events happening locally or nationally, which is a shame. So I’ve had free rein to decide for myself what I want it to mean.

Let’s start with a definition and a confession.

By definition, aromatherapy is the use of essential oils extracted from plants to alleviate physical and psychological disorders, usually through massage or inhalation. (Thanks Microsoft Word Dictionary!)

Now the confession. Despite my keen interest in aromatherapy and the fact that I’m enrolled on a course to study it from September, I have never visited an aromatherapist. I don’t mean an aromatherapy massage in a spa. I’ve had those and right lovely they are too. No, I mean a visit to a licensed professional, trained in aromatherapy and accredited by the IFA, the nationally recognised body. While it’s a direct result of a lack of time and funds, it’s still a pretty poor show. So in the spirit of AAW, I’m making a commitment to visit an aromatherapist sometime in the next few months. BEFORE my course starts on Sept 3rd. But the fact that I’ve never been to a licensed professional doesn’t prevent aromatherapy from making a difference in my daily life.

In my opinion, aromatherapy can be of benefit in two distinct ways. There’s the aforementioned professional route, encompassing therapeutic treatments at spas and the specialised, holistic care you’ll receive from a trained aromatherapist. Then there’s the dabblings of the enthusiastic amateur as practised by me at home, no less significant or effective for my lack of formal training.

Here the emphasis is very much on wellbeing. I use essential oils to help with my physical, mental and emotional balance. I use them to aid relaxation, stimulate my energy levels, lift my spirits, smoothe and protect my skin and even to help tackle cellulite. Inhalaing a favourite aroma can help transform a blah morning.

Don’t get me wrong. If I’m really sick, I’m going to a doctor. End of. But paying attention to my wellbeing and how I feel makes me less likely to pick up the sort of niggling, seasonal illnesses that sap your energy.

Armed with a couple of good books (the Essential Oils Handbook by Jennie Harding in collaboration with the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew and Essentially Oils Ltd in Oxon is a pocket bible) and a small wooden case containing a small selection of core oils, I’ve already picked up a lot. Here are a few of the things I’ve collected along the way and some of my regular habits and tricks.

  • Mix a few drops of lavender essential oil in a water mister and use as a pillow spray to help aid restful sleep.
  • A blend of grapefruit, angelica root and juniper berry can help to improve the appearance of cellulite. Mix 2-3 drops of each in a carrier oil, such as the lighter grapeseed, and massage vigorously into affected areas. Keeping your carrier oil light will mean you can then apply your normal body lotion over the top.
  • Anti-ageing oils such as rosehip or frankincense make great, intensive facial treatments.

Rosehip is rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids. A few drops applied as a night treatment, under a moisturiser can help to smoothe fine lines, restore glow and deeply nourish the skin. Trilogy do a very highly-rated rosehip oil (currently on offer for £13.23 for 20ml on Amazon – http://www.amazon.co.uk/Trilogy-TRO-Rosehip-Oil/dp/B000N94XPQ) that, while I haven’t yet tried, is on my list for the future.

Frankincense is another skin saver with excellent rejuvenating and healing properties. It must be diluted in a carrier oil, such as the richly hydrating borage seed oil, which used alone can help to replenish dry, dehydrated or ageing skin. Add 3-4 drops of frankincense oil to 20ml of borage seed oil and you’ve got a turbo-charged treatment. If you don’t want to mix your own, Neal’s Yard offer the excellent Frankincense Nourishing Cream (£20 for 50g – http://www.nealsyardremedies.com/Frankincense-Nourishing-Cream), which I have tried and can personally recommend for the plumping, smoothing, pillowy effect it had on my face.

  • Try blending oils in a burner to enhance your mood. Just add a few drops of each oil to a little water and vaporise for 15-20 mins.

To energise and uplift: 2 drops Cinnamon, 4 drops Sweet Orange (this one’s a bit Christmassy!) OR 3 drops Lime and 3 drops Bergamot.

To soothe and relax: 2 drops of Sandalwood and 4 drops of Lavender

One of my favourites for creating a sanctuary after a rubbish day at work is 2 drops of Jasmine, 2 drops Sandalwood and 2 drops Sweet Orange.

  • To ease sore post-gym/gardening/long-day-hauling-around-the-shops muscles, try wallowing in a bath with a few drops of ginger, lemongrass or cypress oils.
  • Pre-blended roller applicators offer a quick fix on the go. I’ve used and loved The National Trust’s Sweet Orange and Lavender roll-on (reviewed here: http://naturalbeautycabinet.com/2011/04/25/a-smell-for-the-holidays/) and Tisserand’s Travel Ease roller ball (£5.25 for 10ml – http://www.tisserand.com/shop/index.phptravel-ease-roller-ball-10ml-p-5373.html) which I actually didn’t use for travelling at all but found particularly great when hungover…!
  • Finally, if you really don’t want to spend anything at all, you could just wander out and smell the flowers. And if you haven’t got any of your own to hand, find a park, public garden, friend’s garden or the nearest available green space. Just a few lungfuls of clean, fresh, green air can do wonders!

How about picking just one thing to try this AAW? And do let me know how you get on. I’d love to hear your feedback.